Shawls...
The word shawl is derived from Persian "shal", which was the name
given for a whole range of fine woolen garments. The shawl in India was
worn folded across the shoulder, and not as a girdle, as the Persians
did.Shawls are worn and used as a warm protective garment all over north
India today, Kashmir has become synonymous with shawls all over the
world. At the time of Mughal rule in India, Kashmir overtook the
North-West Frontier and Punjab, as the center of shawl making. The
Mughal emperor Akbar was greatly enamored by the Kashmiri shawls and the
way it was worn, folded in four, captured his imagination. He
experimented with various ways of wearing it, and found that it looked
good worn without folds, just thrown over the shoulder.
There are three fibres from which
Kashmiri Shawls are made - wool, pashmina and shahtoosh. The
prices of the three cannot be compared - woollen shawls being within
reach of the most modest budget, and shahtoosh being a one-in-a-lifetime
purchase.Woollen shawls are popular because of the embroidery worked on
them, which is unique to Kashmir. Both embroidery and the type of wool
used bring about differences in the price. Wool woven in Kashmir is
known as 'raffel' and is always 100 per cent pure. Sometimes blends from
other parts of the country are used and Kashmiri embroidery is worked
on them. These blends contain cashmilon, cotton, or a mixture of
both.Pashmina is unmistakable due to its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun
from the hair of the ibex found in the highlands of Ladakh, at 14,000
ft above sea level.
Although pure pashmnina is expensive, the cost is sometimes brought
down by blending it with rabbit fur or with wool. It is on pashmina
shawls that Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is executed, sometimes
covering the entire surface, earning it the name of 'jamawar'. A Jamawar
shawl can, by virtue of the embroidery, increase the value of a shawl
threefold.Shahtoosh, from which the legendary 'ring shawl' is made, is
incredibly light, soft and warm. The astronomical price it commands in
the market is due to the scarcity of the raw material. High in the
plateaux of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of
above 5,000 m, roam the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops Hodgsoni).
During grazing, a few strands of the downy hair from the throat are
shed which are painstakingly collected by the nomads, eventually to
supply to the Kashmiri shawl makers as shahtoosh.
Woolen Shawls...
The woolen shawls of Kashmir have beautiful embroidery work done on them. The price of the woolen shawls depends upon the type of wool used and the fineness of the embroidery. Kashmiri wool, known as raffel, is 100 percent pure and the embroidery done is quite unique to the valley.
Pashmina Shawls...
Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is one of the most popular shopping items of the state. The shawls are adorned with exquisite embroidery and are extremely soft. The main types of embroidery done on the Pashmina shawls are sozni, papier-mache and aari. Sozni, needlework in a panel on the sides of the shawl, uses abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers as motifs. Papier-mache and needlework is done either in broad panels on either side along the breadth of a shawl or covers the entire surface of a shawl. Motifs consist of flowers and leaves outlined in black. Aari is hook embroidery that makes use of flower design for its motifs.
Shahtoosh Shawls...
Shahtoosh shawls are made from the hair of the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops Hodgsoni). It is found in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 m. Shahtoosh shawls are extremely light, soft and warm. These shawls are awfully expensive, because of the scarcity of the raw material. The shawls may be pure, made from shahtoosh yarn alone, or mixed with pashmina. Within the pure shahtoosh shawls also, there are many qualities. Shahtoosh shawls are rarely dyed and have little embroidery on them.
Woolen Shawls...
The woolen shawls of Kashmir have beautiful embroidery work done on them. The price of the woolen shawls depends upon the type of wool used and the fineness of the embroidery. Kashmiri wool, known as raffel, is 100 percent pure and the embroidery done is quite unique to the valley.
Pashmina Shawls...
Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is one of the most popular shopping items of the state. The shawls are adorned with exquisite embroidery and are extremely soft. The main types of embroidery done on the Pashmina shawls are sozni, papier-mache and aari. Sozni, needlework in a panel on the sides of the shawl, uses abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers as motifs. Papier-mache and needlework is done either in broad panels on either side along the breadth of a shawl or covers the entire surface of a shawl. Motifs consist of flowers and leaves outlined in black. Aari is hook embroidery that makes use of flower design for its motifs.
Shahtoosh Shawls...
Shahtoosh shawls are made from the hair of the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops Hodgsoni). It is found in the plateau of Tibet and the eastern part of Ladakh, at an altitude of above 5,000 m. Shahtoosh shawls are extremely light, soft and warm. These shawls are awfully expensive, because of the scarcity of the raw material. The shawls may be pure, made from shahtoosh yarn alone, or mixed with pashmina. Within the pure shahtoosh shawls also, there are many qualities. Shahtoosh shawls are rarely dyed and have little embroidery on them.
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